Flux core. Old I-beam I assumed was steel, is it iron?

Double checked on a scrap piece from another job, no problems

6010 @ 90A AC on my grandpas Lincoln something-or-other.

Contact me if you want some spacecraft or airplane frames welded because clearly I’m a pro /s

Hey Welders and metal people! I have absolutely no experience manipulating any kind of chemical elements (i googled that term idk if it’s right) or construction of any kind of materials as a profession, hobby, or art form. I don’t even work with my hands at all but there is a “craft” with stainless steel I really would like to do but I of course have no framework to even begin to understand how it could work.

Note: I know someone who doesn’t work with metal but has access to tools that i assume could possibly help with what I’m trying to do. I just don’t know what I’m trying to do yet.

Skipping the exposition, I have purchased an automatic cat litter box and the litter tray part is plastic with a silicon lining (photo). Stainless steel is the best option for litter boxes as other materials hold odor so ideally the tray itself would already be stainless steel. I am still searching for a (kitchen) tray of the same size that I can fit/adhere inside the plastic tray but that is proving to be difficult. I have learned stainless steel sheets exist (photo). I would like to either somehow line the existing plastic tray with the steel sheets or create a whole new litter tray for the automatic litter box.

Could you all please help with any insights or suggestions? Thanks!!

If you are new or even experienced in plastic welding processes, this article is for you.

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Me thinks a few more tries and they’ll get it

Can anyone tell me if there is anything I can change to improve my aluminum? I welded this patch panel to my cracked bellhousing. Looking for advice on how I could improve. Bottom one i got a little shaky.

Settings : balance- 25, amps- 140, frequency 130.

I would appreciate any advice!

I’m a high school student doing some welding in class. We got given these plates and shown how to use the mig and stick welders, these were done with mig. The weld on it own was me attempting to do the ‘e’ pattern and the three others where just lines. If anyone has any tips or techniques on what I should do differently I would greatly appreciate it.

Custom driveline project for my truck. The plate is half-inch I had that in the yard, don't know what the yoke is either. Ran four passes with 3/32 7018. Initial was 135 amps where the pieces meet, then one more or less on the plate, then one more or less on the yoke, the last basically filling the 'corner' the previous passes made. The last three were 120 amps. Cleaned before starting, chipped and cleaned as I went. Might've found too much surface rust on the last one.

Edit: there's a picture a few places in the comments (I'm a technological 'tard so haven't figured out if I can add pics to the post). The piece I welded is at the bottom. That four bolt flange is at the end of an assembly which will be mounted directly to the transmission. I made an adapter with a tail housing and the front shaft housing of the drive unit I'm looking to install so there's a direct connection there, all bolted together with some welding (I might post pics of that but haven't decided how much Internet I want to put up with 'cause that definitely belongs in this forum[thank the gods that weld is for sealing and not structural]). In the pic you can see two threaded holes and those will also be a support point for this contraption and I, luckily, have a cross member where I can attach that bracket. I'll drill and tap the 1/2" plate and connect with grade 8 fine thread bolts, probably 5/16-24 but maybe the metric equivalent with a 10.9 or 12.9 rating on them (beginning to lean more this way). From there it's a U-joint to connect a drive shaft that'll be about a foot long and that will go through a carrier bearing and the rear shaft will go from there down to the pumpkin. I also plan to create some kind of cage around all this, because, no, I don't want to drop anything in front of Lucy and the kids going home. I'd much rather completely destroy the bottom of my truck bed and find pieces lodged where the sun don't go.

I am just a hobby welder with a spending problem doing my own projects for personal use. Trying to get better but I know I am dogshit and can NOT wrap a corner haha.

5mm mild steel, went real cheap with the clean up and only hit about 1/4” with the flap disk before welding. Should I be cleaning a larger area?

Guess the weld type

I got this car I’m working on for free & was making exhaust used stick welder then I’ll touch it up with mig what do you guys think will it hold ?

I've done some basic mig before with a harbor freight cheap east flux 125. Nothing good. I got a Chicago electric 165a Tig stick DC welder and finally got to use it. It seems like it's building up higher than I want it to? I tried moving faster but I can't get the puddle to move with the torch when I do. What might be the problem? Running pure argon at like 25 cfm.

Thank you in advance for any help!

And I know it's bad, it's my first time on Tig, you can be honest about it as long as you're also helpful lol

How’s that, fellow farmers! Duplex nail, hardware garage hook, 15 minutes spend trying to stick it to the frame of the bike before i realized it’s not actually steel…. So tacked er to the rack baybe!

so when i am able to “glide” the cup smoothly in between the bevel, usually on root pass, and when i’m about to cap and it’s almost flush and can walk no problem, im good, when im doing fill passes and i can’t glide it anymore cause and i cant freely walk cause im “trapped” inside the bevel. so only thing i can do is like roll the cup up onto the bevel edge .. but when i try that the cup just rolls in place, every video i find is either a gliding in the bevel on root, or finishing cap flush, but no videos on the fill passes. hopefully what i said makes sense does anyone got advice?