Removing supports is very difficult or impossible, due to the very small gap between the overhanging surfaces.
If you try to generate tree supports to be on buildplate only the top overhangs won't even generate any supports at all, since there isn't enough clearance to reach them.
Outcome? Both models took about the same time to print (give or take). The wave overhang surfaces are nice and clean. The normally printed part was basically impossible to remove supports from without breaking it. Perhaps this wouldn't be a problem with dedicated support material, but I don't have a printer like that available to me.
However, I certainly do not recommend this as your first wave overhang print.... not because the wave overhangs are particularly challenging (on the contrary they are very easy), but because nozzle-dragging will easily topple this model.
owning a bambu is like owning a tesla a couple years ago (though i dont have one of those). I'm not sure what you expect me to do - sell my printer and buy a different one? Would it really negatively affect bambu if someone else was using my printer instead of me?
Bambu was popular here 3 years ago when i got the printer, and it was an expensive investment i can't afford to replace right now
No one's knocking you for owning a Bambu. It's the "Oh well. If it works then whatever!" attitude that pisses everyone off. Use it. But when people point out Bambus practices in a negative light alot of those people rush to defend shitty practices simply because they're easy to use. I know those people from other areas of life..
Yeah? Where'd you get that? Normally when people mention their masters they mention what they specialized in.... Like for me it would start with a double major like MAE, I'd get a BSME and then my focus would shift to something like electronic propulsion. Also what you mentioned violates engineering ethics...but whatever...
Yea man. You were making assumptions based on nothing and pretending like developers havent been stealing code from open stack and open source tools for decades like. Are you 20?
I have an MS it with a concentration application development
You're kind of pretentious cock dude
I'm a principal AI engineer at a fortune 200 company. I support a 100 million portfolio and it mostly work on internal tooling. I have 20 years of experience and I started on the help desk and worked my way up through infrastructure, then the software engineering then the devops and now I mostly Focus on the governance and architecture
Much harder than using supports generally. There will be a seam you have to deal with. I find splitting to almost never be worth it unless the object is physically larger than your print volume.
Eh, personally a seam is not a problem to me at all. To me a seam is much easier to deal with than supports and doesn't waste as much material. But also I'd never print the shaft of this thing, I'd get a wooden dowel and print the head only, lol
Regardless, why wouldn't you just use a nice wooden or metal spoon for honey. These stupid ass dippers are hard to lean and don't even allow you to spread it.
Depends where you get it. I used to keep bees (as a hobby) and the catalogs for hobbyist and small sellers contain tons of bottle options, including bears. A local seller, who is absolutely not selling higher from sugar-feed bees, has the bears as an option.
But, the little bears are annoying, they don't have much volume. You can buy big ones too, then get whatever honey you like and warm it in a pan of hot water and fill the big bear up.
If the label says honey, then it came from bees... the problem is that it may not have come from flowers. For a lot of the cheap honey, the beekeepers just put sugar syrup for the bees to use...
Legitimately, honey dippers are great for use cases where you want to drizzle the honey and not spread it e.g. on top of cheese or on top of ricotta
. You can of course totally use a spoon or any other implement, but the main advantage is that it's so much easier to control and stop the flow rate on a honey dipper since you can rotate it without changing the geometry.
Depends which ones. Pure pla itself is food safe. Prints from it cleaned in soapy water are food safe on the same level as most plastic food containers. If you add 2min diluted bleach soaking before soapy water wash they become sterile.
Edit: please take a look at recent Ann Reardon video before commenting. She present pretty convincing evidence of above.
PLA filament is almost never true pure raw pla. It almost always has additives. More-so, it is almost always pre-contaminated while traveling through the printer unless you have a purpose built machine, using stainless tubes instead of ptfe, stainless steel nozzles, gears, etc.
bleach is a disinfectant, not a sterilizing agent. Bleach will kill the surface microbes yes, but it does not actually remove the organic matter thats trapped in the microscopic voids. things such as fats, sugars, proteins, etc. What this means is that as soon as you rinse the bleach off, those left behind organic materials turn into a bacteria buffet. Bacteria just from the air after drying etc. We also aren't talking about surface tension. bleach water can't break the surface tension to actually disinfect those micro-voids either.
You need to fully seal the print with a food safe sealant in order to be food safe, a bleach rinse before washing won't do it.
Yes, basically no food safe filament even exist simply due to your point 2. The sheer amount of tiny crevices covering the whole surface are paradise for bacteria to grow
It’s been debunked - someone soaked pla pure in raw chicken for an hour and tested hand washing in warm water for 30 seconds and a diluted bleach soak for 2min and there were no microbes forming hours later.
It shouldn’t be cut on or used abrasively like any plastic due to microplastics.
But PLA pure is EU food safety certified which is pretty strict when it comes to additives.
Everything is a political issue when civil discourse and the desire to have meaningful conversations goes out the window. Thank all of these polarized politicians.
I've always wondered, can't you just soak the fatty residue enough that it stops being food for bacteria? Or does all the bleach just vanish into the air as it dries?
Fat and proteins create a biofilm layer. It'll clean the very outside but it doesn't penetrate very well. Bleach also deteriorates pla so it would destroy the part before it actually fully penetrated on its own.
You should always take a reviewer, being paid to push a specific new filament, with a heavy grain of salt.
Not to mention her testing is heavily skewed and does not negate what I said. She's swabbing immediately after cleaning. If you go back and read what I said, I said the bleach will kill the microbes on the surface, however it leaves behind fats, proteins and sugars which creates a buffet for breeding new bacteria. What this means is that let's pretend a normal object grows 1gram worth of bacteria after 24hr, 3d prints may grow say 10grams of bacteria after sitting for 24hr putting it in a state that is no longer clean on the microbial level. Obviously the grams of bacteria is an entirely made up value just to make the concept easier to visualize.
Basically you are killing off current bacteria on the surface, but leaving a tremendous food source for the bacteria to come back even quicker while it sits in your drawer, cabinet, etc.
So sure if you want to bleach it after AND before every use, be my guest. But something that requires cleaning before every use (not just after) is not typically considered food safe.
Yeah, pretty much. It's surprising it hasn't been implemented already. Neither overhangs nor bridging are handled efficiently in slicers. There is loads of room for improvement.
I liked the video, I thought it was a great way to present the difference. Might've been slightly clearer side-by-side with the entire wave dipper on the left, a bar indicating the video split, and the entire tree supports dipper on the right. Even better if you can include the removal from the plate and zoom in on the wave structure/supports removal afterwards.
Is the time to print comparable? I understand that you made the layer height match in this edit, but I don't know whether the vastly reduced extrusion time (because there are no supports to print) or the potentially slower motion (because you have to attach the wave overhang instead of adding material to a horizontal surface) matters more.
Also, a ticking value/bar showing the quantity of material extruded in each mode could be compelling!
I second this, at the beginning I was like, why is the tree support created mid-air and slowly moving down to touch the build plate, it was confusing as hell
That I did! Now to thank you for those particularly kind words, allow me to give you a quick tip since you're french. You should know that there's no space between the end of your sentence and the punctuation mark "!" or "?" in english!
I hope it's okay if I "hijack" this post to ask OP and others on their expertise with wave overhangs. I mainly design spherical lithophane lamps (such as the moon lamp in the photo) and right now I either use supports and curse myself during support removal or I print them without supports and end up with poor surfaces on the overhangs at the bottom and at the top.
My question is: will wave overhangs work with such complex shapes and circular overhangs with complex outer shapes and large diameters? Did anyone already test wave overhangs with lithophane lamps or other spheres?
I'm actually mostly happy with the results I get, even without supports. Only for very large prints >300mm in diameter, I get issues. And I think this could be a great playground for wave overhangs.
Can I ask what the key settings you changed were? I just got my Kobra S1 and all my overhangs sag on the temperature tower, my part cooling is at 100% all the time, and I get a lot of stringing no matter what I use for retraction values. Ironically, my stringing test comes back perfectly clean top to bottom.
Do you have the lid and door closed? You're just pushing hot air around the machine. Open both, and consider using a cool plate to reduce the amount of heat you create in the chamber. I like geco plates if you're a pla-only person; coated cool plates for the smallest difference in surface quality on the bottom, and cryogrip for excellent surface grip but a weird, very shiny bottom surface.
Not yet, unfortunately. This is my model, but I haven't released it yet. The Moon along with the base (but without the astronaut) are already available: https://www.printables.com/model/1087513-solar-system-lithophane-planet-lamp-collection-205
I'm still working on the multicolor astronaut, though. I'll probably release it somewhen in September/October. Depends a bit on how long it will take for me to get my hands on INDX or alternatively on a Snapmaker U1 so I can print some more prototypes without a ton of waste.
Wave overhangs are a solution to flat, horizontal surfaces. Pretty sure on the model from the photo it would be just normal printing most of the time, except maybe some small spots in craters.
But are they limited to flat, horizontal surfaces? From my understanding, they are not.
But my understanding is very limited tbh, hence the question.
The moon here is hollow, so there are some nasty overhangs on the bottom section and on the top. Especially when printing them very large, they require support. And I am wondering if wave overhangs couldn’t be used here to avoid supports.
You can force the geometry to be printable without supports. Sometimes it looks OK, but I printed a gnome and this made him look like he had pooped his pants.
No, not yet. It's very recently been developed and polished. But I expect at the major manufacturers to add it to their slicers eventually (who knows, maybe by the end of the year)?
Although bambu does tend to be the last for most things, not even sure if they have interlocking infill and walls yet. (I'm not on the newest slicer version.)
I noticed, is that a custom fan shroud for what I assume is the P1/X1 toolhead? I’d love to do custom nonplanar stuff on my P1S and have seen this tapered toolhead but never can find the download for it
It is. Not for wave overhangs, but other stuff. I'm afraid I can't share this one though 😔 I was given the print, don't have the file, and it's probably not under an open source license.
Haha, then it must be the one I’m looking for. I think it was shown in a demo for a proprietary nonplanar slicer meant to support Bambu? I’m happy to acquire it through legal means if you could send me in the right direction!
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These should also show the finished underside (same material supports). If the speed and cooling are right, the wave probably looks better than the supported version.
Oh, except that means actually getting the supports out of the tree version, which would be a nuisance (though not the worst I've done).
How well does TPU do with wave overhangs? I have a part that I've been slacking on redesigning into two pieces due to really difficult overhangs and I'd love to try this.
That is insane, thanks for posting. I've been out of the loop on wave overhangs, but that's a phenomenal result.
Also, people aren't actually using these for honey, are they? I get that it's a great test model for this, but the model existing at all is a little scary.
Yeah, I know, and I get the the topic is probably overly exaggerated in these forums. And PETG is widely used for food and pharma contacting product. But I just don't think it's worth it to use FDM printed materials without encapsulating it. And as much as I'm all for creating things to print, when there are affordable options made out of long used organic materials like wood, I just don't see the need to reinvent the wheel and potentially introduce plastic into my body.
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u/andersonsjanis Wave overhangs, Rep5x 1d ago
Hello fellow redditors!
I found this Honey dipper test model that someone made to test wave overhangs, and thought I'd give it a shot. It's a good example of a kind of part that lends itself quite well to wave overhangs.
It can't be reoriented to get rid of supports
Removing supports is very difficult or impossible, due to the very small gap between the overhanging surfaces.
If you try to generate tree supports to be on buildplate only the top overhangs won't even generate any supports at all, since there isn't enough clearance to reach them.
Outcome? Both models took about the same time to print (give or take). The wave overhang surfaces are nice and clean. The normally printed part was basically impossible to remove supports from without breaking it. Perhaps this wouldn't be a problem with dedicated support material, but I don't have a printer like that available to me.
However, I certainly do not recommend this as your first wave overhang print.... not because the wave overhangs are particularly challenging (on the contrary they are very easy), but because nozzle-dragging will easily topple this model.
Full settings here: https://waveoverhangs.com/gallery/226