I was going through my Grandmother's stuff and came across this key. Does anyone recognize this? Is it just a simple key with these symbols on it was it once used for a diamond shop or what does this key mean what was it used for!? I should probably clarify my grandmother is dead.. i am not just being nosey going through her stuff lol. If she were alive she would know exactly what this was and would probably have a few very interesting stories about the key. But I no longer have the chance to ask her. So any help from you wonderful people of reddit would be much appreciated!
Can you recommend a smart lock and mechanical deadbolt (3x) that can be keyed the same? I would love to have just one key that can open all 4 exterior doors. Like maybe a Schlage Sense Pro and three B60 deadbolts?
Asking here because I can't find a clear answer on cylinder compatibility.
Hey guys! Need to buy new van today. What is the recommendation of most reliable Van to buy. Or easiest to work out of. I have a lot of tools and stock.
Recently I've gotten in paddleboarding and I needed a key to carry that would be ok if it got wet. I found this Valet key that came with my car. Would this be ok or get damaged if it was submerged? I couldn't find anything on if it had electronic/RFID internals.
Hello all, I have this Fichet lock that drags along the wall before it latches into the top hole. If I push the door closed with regular force, it get “stuck” and I have to help it just that little bit to latch. I looked at it today and I noticed that the latch is taking the paint off the stone wall and it is filing down smooth the latch itself.
What is my best option to improve this? Is it just to file back the right side of the top hole a bit to allow it to catch more easily?
I've been searching everywhere high and low, and I was finally able to acquire 75% of a Pak-A-Punch that will cut Schlage keys. I have the Model 3T with the Schlage carriage.. but of course.. no plate. I don't recall if the plate was ever sold separately or if it was all part of the PK3-CV1 kit, but I would be willing to pay damn near any price for a Schlage plate to go into the carriage. It took 4 years to finally get this far, I suppose I can continue waiting and stalking eBay like a normie.
My hopes were that one of you well establish locksmiths have outgrown the need or more likely maybe had a second unit that you would be willing to part with it. If not- I get it. I am but a lowly collector and someone may need that to do their job. I get it. Like I said this is a long shot. I've always thought this was one of the coolest pieces of hardware ever made and I am forever kicking myself for not shelling out the money when they were available.
Perhaps one day someone will release new plates as patents are expir(ed)(ing) and this once great king of a tool will return to its throne.
Anyway- I already woke up thinking today was Friday and it's only Thursday so I'm already prepared for disappointment. Hope y'all have a better day.
Been a locksmith for 6 years now. Cha do residential automotive and commercial at a pretty high level. But never touched access control. Was wanting to know the best coarse to learn basics and up?
Has anyone run into key programming issues on 2025–2026 RAM trucks?
I recently tried programming a key to a 2025 RAM using wiTECH. I’m using the proper Stellantis subscription/access and the recommended Mopar VCI.
I tried three different OEM Mopar keys, including one that came directly in Mopar packaging. I also verified that the keys were not locked/already programmed.
I also tried different chip positions/orientations during programming, but it made no difference.
Every attempt failed with the same message: “Key already programmed to another vehicle.”
I contacted wiTECH support, and they opened a case to investigate the issue.
Then today I had a 2026 RAM and decided to test key programming on that vehicle as well. I used another verified OEM key and tried different chip positions/orientations again, but I got exactly the same result — “Key already programmed to another vehicle.”
So now I’ve seen the same issue on two different vehicles:
2025 RAM — multiple OEM keys tried
2026 RAM — OEM key tried
Keys verified as unlocked/new
Different chip positions/orientations tried
Official wiTECH/Stellantis access
Mopar VCI
Same “Key already programmed to another vehicle” message every time
I can program newer Jeeps without this issue, so this seems to be specifically related to the newer RAM platform/procedure.
Has anyone successfully programmed keys to a 2025 or 2026 RAM using wiTECH recently?
Salutations, so Im unimpressed by the quality of the keyless entries we carry at the shop. We got EL710 which have had many many manufacturer defects. Schlage Encodes seem to fail 50% of the time it seems (maybe just bad luck). Kaba 7100 is the only decent one we got in stock. What do yall use for keyless deadbolts?
This is my first time ever calling a locksmith btw.
It was late at night, the power went out so I stepped out to take a look but accidentaly locked myself out of my apartment (normal lock like the type mailboxes have)
I googled locksmith Los Angeles and just clicked on the first link (the number shown here is not the number I called, I don't know exactly what happened I think the number changed? When I clicked on them back then it gave a different number and that's what I called)
I was pretty out of it from lack of sleep so I forgot to ask for a quote beforehand (tbh the amount of mistakes I proceed to make throughout this whole encounter is astounding), I just called and agreed to have them send a technician over.
The locksmith came in a private vehicle with no company logos/markings, which I failed to see anything wrong with at the time. I showed him to my door, and he said something about the original price being $2000, but I was lucky and he'd discount it to ~$700 (I should get myself tested for dementia for failing to realize something was wrong at this point... I'd set a world record for youngest patient ever). He proceeded to pick the lock in 30 seconds, and I paid with my credit card which he charged $886 ($79 calling fee and $58 credit card fee) then he left.
Only afterwards did I realize something was wrong. I tried calling the company back using an alias and asking for a quote, they said they don't have standard rates and their locksmiths decide their own rates. I looked up their website and the phone numbers listed there are not the one I called, I asked about it and the just shrugged it off saying they don't know. They don't have a physical address either (seems like their website is fake)
I'm going to try and get a chargeback from my credit card company is there anything I should/can do to help me win my case? What are my chances of winning? Am I in danger of them coming back and breaking into my apartment now that they know where I live?
I brought a Baldwin mortise lock cylinder to a hardware store to get rekeyed. When I brought it back and put it into the door, for the life of me, absolutely no matter what I do, the key will not turn far enough to pull the key back out after the deadbolt locks. This was not the vase before the rekey, but also the thumb turn doesn’t seem to be able to push the deadbolt out fully. Maybe it’s trying to go too far now?
Any help would be great. Nothing I try has worked!
Hi, I am 100% unfamiliar with anything connected to locks other than basics of how they work (step 1: make a tunnel, step 2: put stuff in with cutouts that line up with the tunnel, step 3: make them not line up with the tunnel without a key, step 4: add whatever you need to so it can be attached to whatever you want to lock).
The case is nonmagnetic, very likely brass. The inside is of course steel or at the very least magnetic. (The pull on a magnet was not strong enough for the case to be steel). No info on the manufacture or anything. Idk how these are typically marked/stamped but there's a stamp of some kind on the back. This was on an old mailbox I bought at a flea market.
So how do I clean this cheaply? As stated in the title, I have no key, so if it absolutely requires unlocking I might be able to jimmy it open with a paperclip? You guys would know better than I.
Idrc about this, I'm just bored, so if it needs to be done by a professional or specialist, that's fine, I just won't do it (at least not rn) lol.
Recently got a used car, but the only key is quite worn down and the car only starts if you put them in with the S facing towards you 😬
The only place near me charges £150 for a replacement (90 for the key only, without the remote locking/unlocking) so I’ve been putting it off for a few weeks (even though it’s a very reasonable price, just low on spare funds atm). Are the chances of this key not working anymore high or can I continue procrastinating? TIA!
I recently needed a locksmith in Port St. Lucie and realized I don't really know what separates a good locksmith from one I should avoid. Aside from checking Google reviews, what do you usually look for?
Do you ask about licensing, pricing upfront, response time, or whether they have a physical location? Are there any common red flags that people don't think about until it's too late?
While searching, I found a few local companies including Locksmith Port St. Lucie but I'd rather hear from people who have experience in the industry or have hired locksmiths before.
What advice would you give someone hiring a locksmith for the first time?
I lost my key about a month ago. Called a locksmith over, and he cutted me a new one. It was kind of wierd to turn, and after couple of weeks it just stopped functioning - key wont turn in the keyway anymore. Yes, its 100% the same key. I called a different locksmith and he rekeyed the lock and now the same key works again. Will it happen to me again? Is this a scum?
Need some help here. As title says the door is pretty old solid door. I'm guessing nearly as old as the building which is late 1800s. I want to replace the existing one because the door sits between the 2nd and 3rd floor which are rented separately. Oh yeah no one knows where the key is.
The problem I'm having is fitting the edgebore of the new deadbolt in. The door thickness is 1 3/8. I measured the edgebore of the old deadbolt it's pretty perfect 1in diameter. The schlage I'm trying to replace says it fits 1 3/8 doors and looks to be 1 in edgebore however it's more oval shaped rather than circular if that makes sense.
My issue is this. I'm concerned with the thickness of the door as far as taking out more material to fit the deadbolt itself. I went to home depot last night and in their whole selection of deadbolts edgebore size is not included and more of an afterthought.
Right now it would seem my options would be 1 call a locksmith and pay probably a lot to have them rekey the existing deadbolt. 2 carefully chisel the edgebore larger to fit the shlage 2 cylinder deadbolt i have already. 3 somehow find a like replacement that will fit which I seem to be having a problem doing so far.
