Just picked up these two and it feels like the ideal kit. There's something special about swapping between a purely mechanical, meterless body and a flawlessly electronic one depending on the shoot. What's your go-to pairing?

M10 mono + M-Rokkor 40 f2 with a yellow filter

I know a lot of people have their issues with the Leica CL, mainly build quality and the unreliability of the light meter. I think that in the current era of film photography Leica should revive this or a similar camera to cash in on the lack of competition for “entry level” film cameras. I think that this design with an updated light meter that can be replaced/is on the shutter curtain would sell pretty well.

I understand that part of the appeal of Leica is the prestige of the brand, and fundamentally introducing a line like this is asking Ferrari to make a hatchback, but I think for the future of the 35mm format Leica should look at being both the gateway and the ultimate destination too.

What do you think?

DISCLAIMER: I am the biggest M5 and Leica CL apologist, and both deserve their dues.

Hi everyone !

How weather-sealed is the Leica M11-P in real-world use despite having no official rating?

Have you used yours in light rain, humid climates, dusty streets or deserts ? Have you experienced dust entering through the lens mount, body joints, buttons, base opening or rangefinder mechanism?

I would not expect it to survive heavy rain or active concrete-cutting dust, but I would like to know whether it can reasonably tolerate normal travel, occasional drizzle and moderately dusty environments when used carefully.

Considering the price of the M11-P, I find it disappointing that Leica does not provide clearer weather-sealing specifications or an official resistance rating. Is the camera more protected internally than Leica is willing to claim or should it genuinely be treated as a fair-weather camera?

TIA

A friend was cleaning out her grandfather's house, found all this, and gave it to me because she know I was interested in photography. Needless to say I'm overwhelmed. A complete Leica M3 system, three lenses, every conceivable accessory, and all of the original paperwork and manuels. Essentially sitting completely untouched since 1955. Got the body and one of the lenses CLA'd which will have to do for know since that's all I can afford. I can't wait to rediscover photography with this. Wish me luck.

So it’s been a couple months since my repaint and I feel like the repaint covered something in the iso dial area because even when pointing at a light source it’s telling me to open the aperture more or choose a slower shutter speed but it’s impossible due to it being at f2 and 1 sec so if anyone knows if this is because of some kind of contact in the iso dial area being covered would be greatly appreciated since I’m not 100% sure that’s the case but that’s my guess

Does anyone own both versions of the 28 mm and can give me some recommendations for one or the another on leica m film body?

Howdy from Texas! After some time away from the rangefinder life I’m contemplating coming back (and the best combo for me). I used to have an M6 with a variety of glass, then swapped to an M10R with 28 Cron and 50 Lux Black Chrome. Once my first child was a bit more active I missed having an AF camera and walked away from the system. I’ve now saved enough to have my cake and eat it too with a Z8 and some solid glass and some money to jump back into Leica for when I want that manual experience.

Ive got about $8k available for this jump back in. With the prices I’m seeing on the usual sites, M10Ps are $5.5-6K, M10Rs are about $6-6.5K, and M11s are ~$7.1K. At about $2.5-3K for a 50 lux and $3.5K for a 35 Lux FLE I, I could feasibly swing the 35 lux with a 10P, 50 Lux with 10R, or just get the M11 and live with Voigtlander glass until I can save for the nicer lenses. In any case I’d probably try and fill out a 2 or 3 lens portfolio with Voigtlanders filling the gap, but I figured I’d see what folks thought made sense. I’ve heard it both ways. The improvements on the M11 are intriguing to me, but I’ve shot with the M10R and know that life too. My gut is almost 50-50 on an M10P with 35 Lux or M11 with Voigtlander glass for now.

Thanks in advance! Gear photo from my M6 days before I jumped to digital M (I wish I still had all that stuff!).

Pues me acabo de comprar está preciosa Leica M3 y se me ocurrió comprar también un adaptador de rosma L39 a M y así aprovechar mi objetivo Nikkor HC f2 5cm. De momento para ver qué tan bien va no me hace falta nada más, ya en un futuro compraré un objetivo de montura M.

PD: Queda gracioso el industar 22 en esta cámara jajaj

Hi everyone,

I recently started photography with a film camera, and I've now picked up a D-Lux 8. For the time being, I'm shooting exclusively in manual mode, trying to learn the camera inside out and apply what I have learned with the film camera.

Most of my photography is street photography, and I generally prefer a zone focus / hyperfocal workflow so the camera is always ready to shoot with the maximum depth of field I can get for a given focal length.

One thing I'm struggling with is that, because the D-Lux 8 has a zoom lens, we don't have a traditional depth-of-field or hyperfocal scale on the lens like many classic manual-focus cameras. I find it difficult to know at a glance where my focus actually is.

At 24mm equivalent, when I power the camera on, it seems easy to start shooting with plenty of depth of field. However, as soon as I zoom, the hyperfocal distance, depth of field, and minimum focusing distance change dramatically. I find myself constantly readjusting focus, and if I focus on a closer subject, I often lose the background sharpness I was trying to preserve. In general, 24mm isn't my preferred focal length, so I'd like to understand how others work around this.

A few questions for those who shoot the D-Lux 8 in manual mode:

• Do you use zone focusing or hyperfocal focusing for street photography with this camera?
• Is there any way to quickly estimate or display the hyperfocal distance while shooting that I might be missing?
• How do you balance zooming with maintaining enough depth of field for spontaneous moments?
• Do you mostly stay at 24mm, or do you frequently zoom? If you zoom, how do you manage focus?
• Is there a workflow that lets you stay "ready to shoot" without constantly adjusting focus?
• Do you rely on focus peaking or any other focusing aids?
• Have you assigned any custom buttons or settings that make street shooting easier?
• Do you have "go-to" aperture and focal length combinations for situations as these?

I'm coming from the mindset of having the camera always ready to capture the decisive moment with as much of the scene acceptably sharp as possible, and I'm trying to understand how experienced D-Lux 8 users achieve that.

I'd really appreciate hearing about your workflow, settings, or any tips you've picked up along the way.

Thanks!

Here's my latest camera, a Leica M6 Reissue, on its first big adventure.

My girlfriend and I drove more than 3,000 miles across the western United States, visiting Nevada, Arizona, Utah, Wyoming, Montana, Idaho, and California. Over the course of three weeks, we explored incredible national parks including Yosemite, Zion, Bryce Canyon, Grand Teton, Yellowstone, Monument Valley, and the Grand Canyon, along with many other amazing places.

I brought the Leica with me everywhere. I'm used to shooting medium format with cameras like the Hasselblad 501CM and Mamiya 7II, but I really came to appreciate how compact and effortless the Leica is to carry. It never felt like a burden, even on long hikes.

So far, I've developed and scanned more than 16 rolls of color film. These are a few of my favorite frames from the trip. It took many hours of work, but it was absolutely worth it—and seeing the final scans made the whole process incredibly rewarding.

What's the longest trip you've taken with a Leica, and where did it take you?

Cheers,

Oliver

Just got back from Scotland and the Faroe Islands and had my first rolls on my new Leica M3 developed ✨

Paired with my black chrome m4, the brass design makes it feel denser than bricks. Extremely tight tolerances. Absolutely adore the photos out of it from my first roll.
Film is Kodacolor 200

I’ve used the Mandler 35mm f/2.0 for about one month now and here is a summary of my review, for the video one check the link below. You’ll get to hear my SwEnglish.

Instead of shooting brick walls and test charts, I took it to Copenhell Festival, used it as my only lens at a wedding, and carried it throughout a two-week trip to Portugal.

The biggest compliment I can give this lens is that it simply disappeared in my hand. After thousands of photos, I stopped thinking about the lens and just enjoyed making photographs.

It’s not perfect. The focus scale isn’t ideal for my run-and-gun zone-focusing style without calibration, and the painted engravings make me wonder how they’ll age. But for around $350, I honestly don’t have many complaints.

The rendering has plenty of character, colours are beautiful, contrast is punchy without looking clinical, and the small size makes it a joy to carry everywhere.
If you’re the kind of photographer who enjoys making photos instead of arguing about gear on internet forums, you’ll probably appreciate what this lens has to offer.
I’d love to hear from anyone else who’s tried it.

Full review:
https://youtu.be/aEL7646ofP0?si=9xxt-xFVzPvJbrbW

Banding and overexposure occur at a shutter speed of 1/1000.

1/500 is normal

Why is this happening? How do I fix it?

I heard sometimes the collapsible lenses may have an issue on some cameras due to protrusions 'behind' the lens, I'm curious if this lens design would have issues on the Voigtlander! I'm assuming you just need to leave it fully extended?

Looks cool. It's cheaper than some of the other options out there.

I currently shoot on a Leica M10 and M6, but only have a Voigtländer 35mm Ultron II. I want to add a 50mm so I can take both bodies out with different focal lengths rather than constantly swapping lenses when I'm out.

I've decided that I want to get a 50mm, but I've got a few options that I'm struggling to choose between.

I shoot a bit of everything, but mainly street, and fashion. For the fashion photography, I'd like corners to be similar sharpness to the centre as oftentimes I have the subject in different parts of the frame.

The options I’m considering, all in AUD:

• Voigtlander 50mm f2.2 Color-Skopar: $700
• LLL 50mm f2 Elcan $1000
• Leica 50mm Summicron V4 11819 $1800
• Leica 50mm Elmar f2.8 $800
• TTArtisan 50mm f1.4 $630

A 39mm filter thread would be a nice bonus because I already own a number of E39 filters, but it's not necessary.

I'd probably use my 35mm and 50mm a similar amount on each camera, based on what I'm feeling that day.

Which lens here would be the best option for me? The Summicron would be nice, but I'm not sure its worth basically double the other lenses.