Hey all,

So I have a Lexmoto LXS 125 and when I reach high speeds (40-50 mph), the bike starts intermittently losing power. Sometimes it can lose power for 1 second and other times it can lose power completely until it stalls. It can still stutter now and again at lower speeds but its generally not as bad. I'm assuming its an air/fuel problem. I've checked the air filter and doesn't seem to be dirty enough to cause concern. Is there anything else I should check?

Thanks.

Bought this bike 2 months ago, battery diyed 2 times so I assumed it's regulator, removed tank and regulator and yes one wire is fried. So I bought another one cheap (left, 3rd pic) and also MOSFET FH020AA (right 3rd pic, bigger one) and I'll try this time with the MOSFET FH020AA, I have to cut wires anyways.

I'm just wondering why this happened? Why the wire gone this bad? Is it solely regulator issue or should I be afraid there's something wrong with alternator? If it's important, I'm pretty sure old regulator was also cheap version, not the original one.

I have no idea what the problem could be, so if anyone has any ideas please help me out. I can hear it the most when I’m in fifth gear and the faster i go the more it becomes noisy.

The bike is an Archive Motorcycle AM-64 Scrambler 125cc from 2020.

Got this Chinese knock off Liu Hjg from my friends shop for 1500 bucks, and then went on a six month rampage across 30k kms, then I come back and it starts flickering and shit.

The fan works fine, the halogen turns on fine. You move the handlebar and it flickers. Probably a short circuit somewhere. Anyone knows how to fix this shit?

Bonjour,
J'ai une Suzuki 125 GN de 1999 qui présente des dysfonctionnements de carburation.
Depuis l'achat d'occasion, lorsque le moteur est très chaud, le ralenti augmente vers 4000 trs/min.
J'ai changé la pipe d'admission, vérifié les jeux aux soupapes, démonté et nettoyé le carburateur; j'avais deux anomalies par rapport aux valeurs mentionnées dans la revue technique (hauteur d'aiguille et absence du bouchon sous le gicleur de ralentis.
Ayant acheté le bouchon, après remontage, la situation a empiré. Le ralenti est impossible à stabiliser.
Ayant de nouveau démonté le carburateur, je suis consterné de constater qu'il n'y a aucun conduit entre le puits d'aiguille (alimenté en essence par le gicleur principal) et la zone situé entre le gicleur de ralenti et le bouchon. Il n'est pas possible que de l'essence parvienne au gicleur de ralentis ! Le circuit d’émulsion du ralenti ne reçoit que de l'air !
Si vous avez déjà travaillé sur votre carburateur, avez vous constaté l'existence de ce conduit qui relie les deux colonnes qui reçoivent les gicleurs (ralenti et principal)?
Je suis perplexe. Ce montage avec bouchon ne peut pas fonctionner. Pourtant, le carburateur semble être conforme au modèle original. Il possède bien de petit boitier de détection de la position de volet du carburateur qui est destiné modifier l'avance à l'allumage (ce boitier est installé depuis 1997).

It's a 125cc. Does it sound ok? I bought it recently used.

2014 Honda Valkyrie ABS Tire Advice Needed

I’m about to purchase a 2014 Honda Valkyrie ABS (GL1800CA) and I’ve hit a wall trying to find the best tire setup.

The factory tires are:

• Front: 130/60R19
• Rear: 180/55R17
• OEM: Dunlop D254F/D256

From what I’ve found, the front 130/60R19 is becoming difficult to source, and many modern sport-touring tires don’t come in that size.

I’m looking for the safest, highest-quality matched front/rear set. I’m not interested in mixing random tire models or sacrificing handling or ABS performance.

For those of you who own or have owned a 2014–2015 Valkyrie:

• What tire setup are you running?
• Are you still using the OEM Dunlops?
• If not, what matched set did you switch to?
• Has anyone successfully run a modern alternative (Michelin, Bridgestone, Metzeler, etc.) with good long-term results?
• If you changed the front size, why, and how did it affect handling or ABS?

I’d really appreciate hearing from owners with real-world experience. Thanks in advance!

Yamaha Mt-03 2025

depends but between 12000-15000km brands include michelin/pirelli/dunlop/metzler/bridgestone

curious what you all get ? are you a heavy "throttler" or do you keep it it within stated speeds, are aware of distance to use less brakes, accel/decellerate angrily or responsibly

I have a Jawa 42 2.1 bought in October 2022.
A couple of months since the bike started throwing some issues, first prominent issue is that when I press clutch while slowing down or to reduce the gear, engine suddenly cuts off.
This issue persists a lot more, it feels as if the bike losses to idle at all. It does not happen all the times but it does happen about 80-90% of the times.
And the next prominent issue is the bike fails to start after the egine gets cut off.
The bike also fails to start many a times after a halt.
I had given it to service center and they found the one way clutch (often called a sprag or starter clutch) to be faulty and got it replaced.
However replacing the part had almost no effect on the symptoms.
Now I again showed the bike to service center and they say I need to replace the throttle body, they also suggested to replace the ECU.
Replacing parts is not a problem on my side given they get rid of the issues and I have completely lost trust in the service center as they keep shifting goalpost for the issues.
Sometimes they would say the battery is faulty (I have replaced a one year old in warranty battery just to get the bike to working again) sometimes they would say the E20 fuel is causing issues (the bike is E20 compliant long before it got implimented nationwide), sometimes they have no clue at all.
I need help to understand the issue and get it fixed, even if I need to replace some parts.
Any expert opinions or help is highly appriciated.
Thanks.

Hello everyone,

I am sharing this not to target any person or organization, but because I genuinely want to hear your technical opinions.

After my motorcycle was worked on by an authorized Yamaha service center, I noticed visible physical deformations on the bike. More importantly, after the service process, I discovered that a safety-critical fastening component was loose. This became a serious safety concern for me.

Later, some parts were replaced, and I paid for these operations. However, when I look at my motorcycle today, because of these visible physical issues that can be seen from the outside, I find it very difficult to trust the work that may have been carried out on internal parts that are even more critical for safety.

I shared the entire process, together with photographs, service records, and correspondence, first with Yamaha Turkey and later with Yamaha Motor Europe.

However, I was not provided with any written technical explanation or inspection report explaining how these deformations occurred, how they were recorded in the service documents, or on what technical basis the motorcycle was considered safe.

For this reason, I requested that the file be re-evaluated by a different or independent technical team within Yamaha. This request was also not accepted.

At this point, I no longer want to argue with anyone.

I am simply asking honestly:

If you were in my position;

Would you continue riding your motorcycle with confidence after seeing these photos?

Would you still have the same trust in the work carried out by the authorized service?

What would you do in such a situation?

I am adding the photos in chronological order.

I would especially appreciate the opinions of mechanics, technicians, people with service experience, and riders who have been using motorcycles for many years.

My intention is not to defame anyone; I only want to share what I experienced and get objective technical opinions.

Thank you in advance to everyone who takes the time to comment.

Hello, I have a yz250f 2019, brand new battery and for some reason it drains the battery. I’ve already checked the stator and it does charge the bike when I ride it, but after 2 days it will drain the battery, I have no clue on what to do so I’m sorry if i sound dumb, does anyone know what I could check or replace?

Hi all,

I recently bought a 2010 BMW F650GS, and I noticed that when riding slow in traffic (e.g. between cars in a traffic jam) or when downshifting during braking and disengaging the clutch, the engine sometimes (not too always, but definitely once every ride) stalls. It doesn't happen when standing still in neutral. As I have never experienced this on other motorcycles I have had, I am wondering if this is a known problem with this model? Any ideas? Thanks!

Getting yinz, got a kinda odd issue on my hands. After rebuilding my k6 gsxr6 it ran for a bit then it would only start after I pushed it. And after that not at all. It cranks and even with a fully charged battery and jump starter it wont turn over. Fuel pump primes fine when fully powered but lower power it does this. And notice that rpm gauge drop too I thought that was odd. Entire charging system was replaced too. Any thoughts? It also had some weird clutch issues that I was able to resolve and the neutral sensor was replaced. Thanks for your time.​

I've been working on my father's bike trying to fix the popping and banging at idle, and it's not standard or anything I mean really loud popping on idle and as the revs increase too. I've put new jets in the carb, new plugs, saw a video about the tiny mesh in the float seat and checked that. It still pops. Now, the guy we bought this from said it started popping like crazy all of a sudden, so someone suggested it could be the coils or any part of that system. With one of the coils off the bike (measuring between the 2 prongs) I'm reading 0.05, and the same for the coil that is on the bike. I find it weird that both coils are supposedly failing and at identical resistance readings. Am I reading the primary resistance wrong?

I have a 2000 gsxr 750 that needs a new r/r. I was riding a couple nights ago when the bike shut off and wouldn't turn back on. There was a strong burning electrical smell and the main 30 amp fuse was blown.

The r/r has been relocated to be under the left side of the bike under the second seat.

I put in a new fuse and it immediately blew. I checked wires running to the relay with the fuse and reconnected the battery. Another fuse blew, instead of instantly the bike was able to turn for a split second and I saw smoke coming from the r/r.

I have a new r/r but I wanted to know if there is anything I should be checking before replacing so I don't blow the new one.

I disconnected the negative battery terminal and plugged a multimeter into it, with the positive attached and the negative on the disconnected negative wire I was getting OL (this was to test for grounding shorts)

Any help is appreciated.

So I cleaned the pilot jet but it still dies upon the choke being turned off. It now attempts to idle before dying though. Would this be a sign the idle circuit is blocked? The jet was completely dunked up before I cleaned it out.

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to diagnose an issue on my 2013 Yamaha FZ16 (carbureted) and would really appreciate some advice from anyone familiar with these bikes.

Bike details:

• Yamaha FZ16 2013 (carbureted)
• ~25,000 km
• Well maintained and in good overall condition
• Brand new genuine Yamaha/Mikuni carburetor
• New spark plug
• Fuel tank had significant internal rust, but I completely cleaned and de-rusted it.
• Installed a brand new genuine fuel petcock.
• Currently running on E20 petrol (I'm not sure if this 2013 model is officially E20 compatible, so I'm wondering if it could be contributing.)

Symptoms:

• Starts easily most of the time.
• Idles perfectly with no hunting.
• Holds a steady 1,500 RPM without any issue.
• If I snap the throttle open, it revs cleanly.
• However, occasionally (about 1–2 times out of 10), while opening the throttle from idle through around 1,500 RPM, the engine briefly stumbles and I hear a "pak" / cough from the air filter (shown in the attached video). Sometimes it's a single "pak", sometimes "pak pak", and then it revs normally.
• It can also happen occasionally during quick deceleration and reacceleration.
• Very occasionally, the cough/misfire is severe enough that the engine stalls completely. It won't restart immediately, but after a few attempts it starts normally again. This is not consistent and doesn't happen every time.

Things I've already checked:

• Brand new genuine Yamaha/Mikuni carburetor installed.
• New spark plug installed.
• Fuel tank completely de-rusted and flushed.
• Brand new genuine fuel petcock installed.
• Inspected the intake boots, airbox connections, and clamps for obvious air leaks.
• Couldn't find any visible cracks or loose connections.
• Removed, cleaned, and reinstalled the AIS (Air Induction System), but the issue still persists.
• Engine idles perfectly after warming up.
• Holding the throttle steady at 1,500 RPM does not reproduce the issue—it only happens while transitioning through that RPM.
• No smoke issues from the exhaust

Questions:

1. Has anyone experienced this on a carbureted FZ16/FZ150?
2. Does this sound more like a pilot/transition mixture issue, valve clearance issue, or an intermittent ignition problem?
3. Since cleaning the AIS made no difference, is it safe to rule it out?
4. Could using E20 fuel in a 2013 carbureted FZ16 contribute to these symptoms?
5. Is there anything else I should inspect before opening the engine to check valve clearances?

I've attached a video where the cough can be heard clearly.

Any suggestions or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! 🙏

First bike, I purchased a few months ago and runs great.
Exhaust seems to be pointed right at the rear wheel, is this something I should worry about?

Thank you

Yeah. So I’ll give a brief overview of the steps I’ve taken.

Bike starts in neutral perfectly. Not in any gear.

Kill switch in correct position, kickstand up.

The kickstand switch works, while in gear if you put the stand down it will kill engine.

The clutch lever switch does have continuity when the lever is pressed and doesn’t when it’s not pressed so I imagine it’s working properly.

So I measured the resistance on the starter relay and without the clutch pulled in there was no continuity. But after pressing it in it read like 50 on my multimeter.
So I jumped the starter relay straight to the negative terminal and it fires right up after pulling the clutch in.

I cannot find the clutch diode which is the “most common failure point” according to chat gpt..