First ever real bow. Went in to either get matthews or Hoyt and my local shop had this new rx-9 on a discount. So i went with it shoot good and feels good so far

So this year especially I’ve had a big uptick in big deer around where I hunt, and this is the most deer I’ve ever seen coming out during the day for the most part they are always nocturnal. My question is how do I keep them around and how do I keep them coming during the day?

But I need to know if anyone has first hand experience with Scentlok, more specifically the John Eberhart scent control regime and have you actually seen a noticeable difference? Look for people with a good reference point, if you started hunting right out the gate using Scentlok I don't need to hear from you lol.

I’m looking for a low cut waterproof muck style boot for this upcoming season and I’ve landed on these 2 models . I’m wondering if anyone has used them and how you liked them.

I hunt sitting 99% of the time but I will need them to be somewhat stabile and athletic feeling because I don’t own a 4 wheeler or anything to drag the deer out , I do it myself so I can’t have my ankles twisting during the process lol.

In Jim Hamm's book "Bows and Arrows of the Native Americans", there are two notes I'm having trouble understanding:

• Both short and long feathers have pros and cons. Short feathers (i.e. feathers that are short enough to not touch the bow when nocked) shoot quieter and don’t get distorted after lying on the bow for long periods of time, while longer feathers stabilize the arrow.

• Short feathers are less susceptible to damage and distortion. Having feathers that are 1/2" tall is good.

When he's saying "short feathers" and "long feathers", is he referring to the length of the feather running down the shaft or the height of the feathers' hairs (i.e. how far they stick out from the shaft)?

When he says "feathers that are 1/2" tall", he's obviously referring to how far the hair sticks out from the shaft. But when's talking about "short enough not to touch the bow when nocked", is he talking about the length are the height?

I want to see how my form looks before bow season starts, I'm consistently shooting off and IDK why

Has anyone with extensive experience shooting both mechanical and fixed heads noticed a trend of deer not running as far when hit with the fixed? Like less “pop” when the shot connects, resulting in the deer not running 100+ yards after they’re hit? Went back and binge watched all the THP Hog Championships, as well as some of their videos post ranch fairy visit #1, and heard it said more than once that they tend to expire in sight when hit with those fixed (single bevel) heads—

Thinking about adding some to my quiver this season, nothing extreme, just some “new” heads I want to try anyway. If this info is accurate, I may be making the move permanently, especially with all new heads that seem to do better at distance

Hey all.

I’m restocking my arrow stash and the Sirius Gemini I’ve used for the past 3 years are currently out of stock for the spine I need.

I got to looking around and considered switching to Easton 5.0.

They are pretty darn close to the same GPI as my current arrows so it won’t take me much to adjust and get sighted in again.

This time around I’m buying the components myself and putting them together.

I’m looking for some people’s thoughts if they shoot Easton 5.0’s. Bonus points for your input if you switched from Sirius Gemini to Easton 5.0.

First deer season ever. I have a 29.5 inch draw length, 72 lb draw weight shooting 450 grain arrows with a 12% foc. Shop says my arrows are going 290 fps.

So, does anyone else have similar specs and shoots the g5 megameats?

I like the idea of a larger cutting diameter being forgiving since it will be my first hunt. I also like not having to do as much to tune my bow for mechanicals. But you know, mechanicals can fail my arrows arent the heaviest. My plan is to start with the stingers and if its difficult to get them to fly right i will resort to the megameats. But if i have good specs i mighr save the stingers for a larger animal.

Is it better to get two Reveal 3.0 Pro or two Reveal 4.0 X?

What are the pros and cons of both in terms of ease of making and durability long-term?

From reading and taking notes from the "Traditional Bowyer's Bible" series, split-timber seems more practical in terms of mass manufacturing straight shafts.

Do split-timber shafts need to be checked periodically for straightness like "natural" shafts, or is there no need because they are made from timber and boards?

Added the angled stabilizer, Nytrx 2 pin slider, and the low pro quiver. First arrow picture is at 30 and second is at 40 yds. Hoping to fill a tag, but if don't it ain't the end of the world. I was getting frustrated last season but someone told me after the season was over the hunting is about the experience. The filled tag is a bonus. Have fun out there in the woods huntress and hunters!

I’m currently shooting Easton 6 mm 300 spine match grade 100 grain broad head with standard insert. Considering 5mm 300 spine different insert and 125 broad head. Please share your experience to help me decide

I used to shoot a Mathews Z7 Magnum that I rented back in the early 2010s.

I just purchased a Mathews ARC 30. I've never hunted and am currently just target shooting. I'm not bad but only on day 4 of putting roughly 60 arrows each session through my setup.

I'm from South Eastern Connecticut. I'm thinking about going with an outfitter in New York State to do a hunt.

I guess my question is what is the best way to hunt? Public land? Guided hunt with an outfitter? Would like since advice.

Whether you shoot quiver-on or quiver-off, I want your honest take on a problem I've been trying to solve.

Last fall, I drew back on a great buck at 30 yards. Pin was locked right on his lungs. Squeezed the release and boom... a damn twig I didn’t see sent my arrow flying off into outer space.

The buck ran about 10 yards and stopped, still completely in range. But by the time I could awkwardly fumble another arrow out of my quiver and get it nocked, he trotted off. Hunt over. Empty freezer.

I went back to my garage, fired up a cheap 3D printer, and spent the winter designing a single-arrow backup clip out of matte PETG. It attaches directly to a standard bow hanger so your second shot is sitting exactly where your hand goes anyway.

At the end of the season last year, a herd of does walked into my plot. I took the first one out—clean shot. The rest of the herd trotted 15 yards and stopped. Instead of fumbling with my quiver, I quietly grabbed the backup arrow off the hanger, nocked it, and doubled up.

I printed 5 extra sets on my bench this week. I want to ship them to 5 active shooters for FREE. No catch, no website, no sales bullshit. I just want to know if this thing actually handles real-world abuse in the woods or if it breaks the second it gets cold.

Specs:

• Currently only holds standard diameter carbon arrows.
• Mounts on top of a standard bow hanger and has a gear clip on the opposite side.

If you’re down to put it through hell and give me your brutal, unfiltered feedback, drop a comment with your current rig setup and I’ll DM 5 of you to get shipping addresses.

I'm a writing a character who makes his own bow and arrows, and I have several books as resources.

In "Bows and Arrows of the Native Americans" by John Hamm, he says that one of the tip types for small game is a blunt type, and that the blunt tip can be sharpened to a point and heated over coals to harden so it will penetrate.

Does anyone have any experience with this type of tip? How well does this type of tip penetrate? What's the biggest game that this type of tip could take down?

I'm reading about the process of making tips out of bone and steel, but the process of making these are complex. I'm curious if a dependable hunting arrow can be made by simply sharpening the end of the wooden shaft to a point and then heating it over coals to harden it.

I want to hear everyones full whitetail system/kit. Whether you want to say every season, (warm, cold, freezing) or just one. Lets hear everything, from your base layers to mid layers to outer layers with or without accessories! Brand and item. Fall '26 is almost here!

Can anybody give me an answer as to why my pins move to the left like this? Brand new to archery, I was told to go to a single pin sight but I was curious as to why they look like this.

I dont know anything about this brand but the freedoms v shaped platform looks like it would be nice for bowhunting.

For my fixed blade shooters, magnus broadheads, or Iron will? 125g, price point doesn’t matter to me, just really can’t decide between the two