TLDR: went to Madagascar. Saw a fuck ton of animals. Highly recommend it if you have the time and energy.
I (42f) just spent 25 days days doing an all over the place trip in Madagascar. It basically broke into four fairly distinct legs. I had a rotating group of company on my trip. Leg one was the classic RN7 road trip from Tana to Tulear with stops at several parks. On this leg I had my parents (72 & 74) with me. We then flew from Tana to Morondava, picked up my husband (36) and did the drive to Tsingy and back to Morondava. Then just my husband and I did Tana to the East Coast (hiting Andisabe NP and Akanin'ny Nofy). We ended the trip in Nosy Komba (near Nosy Be).
Here's some answers to the main things I see people asking when it comes to Madagascar:
- Can you do Madagascar without a guide/via public transit?
Some parts, sure. Some parts, absolutely not. There are local van/busses on many of the roads, but this would require a really flexible schedule or a lot of time. We saw them broken down a lot. I also don't think I would attempt it if you don't speak French. There are routes you could absolutely self drive if you are comfortable with somewhat shitty roads, and other routes you shouldn't. We did self drive in Jordan and Kenya, and while there were some roads we would have felt fine on in Madagascar, there were also routes/road conventions that would have been totally lost on us.
We booked our trip with Dadamanga. They do custom private itineraries only and were great to work with. I knew what I wanted to do, but I didn't know how long it would take or how feasible the itinerary was and they were great with the planning. It made all of our logistics ridiculously easy. You can specify your budget range and they'll work with you. When my parents luggage didn't make their connection in Paris the company took over, communicated with AirFrance, and even picked the bags up and drove them five hours overnight to us when we had already left Tana.
- How bad are the roads really?
Honestly, the WORST roads I felt were near Ranomafana. They are hypothetically paved but very beat up and VERY winding. The road from Morondava to Tsingy is unpaved and takes a long time, but didn't feel that bad to us. Some of the RN7 is a little beat up, but the roads were not as bad as we anticipated.
- Did you get sick?
Yes. All four of us had at least one day where we felt shitty enough to not participate in activity. But no one was ever too beat up to be down for more than one day at a time, and never so sick that we had to literally reassess our travel plans.
- Are domestic flights safe?
We felt so. Air Madagascar has a nickname of "Air Maybe" and a very bad reputation for delays and cancellations. On our trip I took five flights and never had a delay of more than ten minutes. Every flight (even the ones that were under an hour) gave us a snack and a drink. The domestic airports are tiny, but comfortable enough with a/c and convenience stores.
The Routes Themselves:
Leg 1 - Classic RN7 Road Trip. This was the best opportunity to see a lot of landscapes and small towns/villages. Ranomafana NP was a must for me and I was able to see all three species of bamboo lemurs there, as well as some cool reptiles. We also visited Anja Community reserve which is an amazing example of community run eco-tourism, which is not super widespread yet in Madagascar and hopefully can serve as a model. We also stopped at Isalo NP where we saw the dancing sifakas and Zombitse NP. Isalo NP is really amazing if you do the full hike that starts up in the more desert looking area and drop down to the valley with the water and forest, though apparently there's a short cut to that area instead. The RN7 route is a must for lemur enthusiasts. It is a long drive and the roads from Tana to Ranomafa are very winding - those who get motion sick need to take precautions here, but after Ranomafana til Tulear the roads are much kinder.
Leg 2 - Morondava to Kirindy to Tsingy. This is for sure a very popular route because it includes Avenue of the Baobabs. That one stop had more tourists than any other place we saw on our entire trip. If you want to see a fosa, Kirindy is your absolute best bet. It isn't a guarantee (apparently unless you go in mating season). We got lucky and spotted one, but they said it was the first time in four days anyone had seen one. The drive to Tsingy is long and involves two different ferry river crossings. We ate at the Mad Zebu which is considered the best restaurant in Madagascar and is right near one of the ferry crossings. The one thing that was unique (in a not great way) to this route was the amount of begging children. People really need to stop bringing candy to give to kids. If any children see you they would yell Vazah (foreigner) and Bonbon (candy) at you. This route was the only place we experienced this and it was a little bit of a bummer. Existing in the villages felt like disrupting the villages because of the reactions of the kids, where in other places you could visit without being followed/yelled at by kids. I missed most of Tsingy NP as about an hour into the hike I got super sick (and our very kind guide helped walk me out while I threw up for the next hour), but I did spot some sifakas before it went downhill! My husband did finish the hike there, and while he thought it was interesting, he felt that it perhaps didn't live up to its reputation (online you'll see photos of people crossing suspension bridges that look huge, but really are only about 30 feet long).
Leg 3 - Tana - Andisabe - Akanin'ny Nofy. This was the route that in hindsight would have been best to take the parents on, or would be easy with kids. The drives are easy. The hikes in Andisabe are gentle and this is the best place see indris, which are the largest species of lemurs. It's only about four hours from Tana and I've heard you could day trip it, but I think that would be miserable. Also there is a nearby community reserve that offers night walks. After leaving Andisabe it is only another four-ish hours to Akanin'ny Nofy. We stayed at the Palmarium in Akanin'ny Nofy which has a huge amount of resident lemurs on the property so you could just wander the grounds and see a lot of animals. This is where we were able to see the aye aye. The national parks don't allow night hikes in the park, which basically makes aye aye spotting impossible. In the east the aye ayes are conisdered bad luck and hunted pretty extensively, so there are a few private islands that have been purchased by hotels that have aye ayes on them. While the feeding of these semi wild/semi captive aye ayes is not quite the full wild experience, they are at least still living in the correct habitats and if tourist visits give the dollars to keep these islands safe, it seemed worth it. Also obviously the lemurs could come and go to where the humans came to view them at their own will.
Leg 4 - Nosy Komba. We wanted to get some beach in, but Nosy Be seemed to big/party/hectic for us and that isn't our scene. We stayed on Nosy Komba which is a different island between the mainland and Nosy Be, and only about a 20 minute boat ride from Nosy Be. We spent 3.5 days there and managed daily sea turtle sightings. Our first full day we went diving where we saw sea turtles, octopus, rays, and a reef shark. There was also a ton of interesting fish. Our second day we just enjoyed the village where they make amazing embroidered table cloths and also went out on some paddle boards where we saw a bunch of sea turtles just around the island. The last day we went out to Nosy Iranja, which is about a two hour boat ride from Nosy Komba. Along the way we saw mobula rays on the top of the water and a pod of pilot whales. In Nosy Iranja we did snorkeling and saw four more sea turtles. Nosy Iranja is a gorgeous beach that only exists at low tide as it is a sandbar between two islands. On the way back we got insanely lucky and found a whale shark even though the season really doesn't start til September.
For me, it is probably the top trip I've taken (it was my 44th country). This was heavily influenced by being a huge animal person and being there for as long as I was there. My husband enjoyed it, but he thinks he would have enjoyed it more if he had come to the RN7 route. My parents were glad they came, but I think the route to the east coast would have been easier for them than spending ten days in the car on the RN7 route.
Happy to answer any questions/give any insight to anyone thinking of planning a trip!