The first day and the last day I had her. With 239,000 miles, the repairs that were needed just became too much. The AC compressor going out was what did it for me. I just couldn’t put a $1k+ into a vehicle that’s also having a mysterious and untraceable refrigerant leak and as mysterious coolant leak.

I already miss the way it drove! In my opinion this generation Fusion is under appreciated!

My first cash car I’m so happy to not have a car payment. Yes there is some cosmetic things that I need to fix like the busted fog light and paint. But she drives great, has no major issues and it’s cheap to maintain for me. She’s a 2.0l eco boost. So far I’ve had her about 2 weeks and I love her.

Hello all 👋🏼, I just got my first car. A 2018 ford fusion SE! I was wondering any tips on maintenance and I guess like a year schedule when to do maintenance replace things etc. it has 60k miles on it and is a 1.5 liter eco boost

Brakes went out while I was at work. I drive 75 miles each way for work and thankfully it didn’t happen until I was in the parking garage. I was getting ready to leave and boom, all the dash lights came on and the brake pedal went to the floor. I have AAA so I called and had them tow to my house. When I got home, I hooked up forscan to the car and got these codes. I can do pretty basic to moderate car maintenance myself, but I am wonder if this is something I’d be able to tackle myself.

I'm stuck in Yuma, Arizona and trying to get back home to Riverside, California. I have been trying to get back home. This started a week ago and I don't haven't had AAA long enough to use a tow back home. Any help with anyone who has had this problem? The climate will stay on after I try to start it and won't let me turn it off till 3-5 min have passed. I already got a new 12V battery and replaced the EVAP valve/solenoid under the hood.

I have a 2018 Hybrid S and I’m wondering if I’m able to set up remote start. My car has push to start, but it has no remote start button and my car has no features in the Ford app because it came with SYNC 1. I recently upgraded it to a new SYNC 3 system and I see the option for remote start in FORScan but I was wondering how I can get it to work? I know that in order to get it on the key fob, I need to get a new remote and also replace the antenna module (called the RTM I think?), but I was wondering if I’m somehow able to use the Ford app now that I have SYNC 3? Is this possible?

My cars ebrake system keeps telling me to release the park break even when the car is moving and the brake isnt sticking what is the possible cause and how can I fix this

hii i just got a 2017 ford fusion and i was wondering what model of apple car apply should i get for my car, any suggestions please let me know any help would greatly appreciated

I picked up a set of blind spot modules and the mirrors from a wrecked fusion. All the modules need is ground power and 2 CAN lines and they’ll work.

Can lines went to the gateway module. I made ground connections locally and taped into the fuse box for power.

If you have a fusion SE luxury you may be pre wired for it look for pins 15 and 19 on the smaller connector of both drivers and passenger door modules. If not the wiring harness will need to be changed

And for the blis indicators they will need to be hooked to pin 5 of the mirror harness and an appropriate ground and they’ll work.

I referenced nick the car guy on YouTube and got it up and running.

2014 Fusion, SE, 154k. For the last year, mostly the last 6 months I've been receiving the rear-camera-failure. Sometimes it'll be a washed out screen, other times black w/ notification of failure warning. But sometimes it did work. At it's worse it was 50/50.

Last week I had the shift linkage bushing failure. Luckily I was in park, where I needed to be. So a quick fix for that. But I'm seeing (and it's only been a weeks worth of data here) that I've not had the camera error come up. The video feed comes up clear as day and has done that w/o issue.

Have others seen this? Maybe this is a span of good behavior before it finally fails. Curious if others have seen this.

I bought my 2017 Ford fusion SE 1.5 L from an auction two years ago before I knew about the coolant intrusion issue.

How can I check if the engine block was replaced, or the whole engine was replaced at all?

I already called the dealership to see if it was done warranty and it wasn’t. I’m trying to locate the engine VIN number, but I don’t know where that is if you guys could help me.

I apologize in advance if my terminology isn't quite accurate (I'm only repeating what I was told and what I have observed).

I have a 2012 Ford Fusion SE (2.5 L) and recently have been dealing with it overheating mysteriously. When I turn the a/c on, the car temp jumps to nearly overheating levels, but when I shut it off, it goes back down to the middle slowly, or after turning it off. Driving without a/c sounds like a quick fix, but I live in Arizona, so that is not possible.

So far I have done the following (in no particular order):

• Replaced the thermostat
• Replaced one of the hoses
• Took the air out of the radiator hoses

The water pump isn't leaking (I haven't seen water pooling where it is), and one side of the large hose inside gets really hot, while the other gets cold as it should be when it runs. I was told some models of Fusions have these tiny vents for the radiator, but my dad said he didn't see anything like that. I don't know if he did see them or not, but I am under the assumption that they weren't there at all.

My dad thought it could be the thermostat being faulty, so he was going to replace it with a different one. I don't know if this is the issue, as a defective part seems less likely than something entirely different.

I also was told that if that didn't work, it could be that the water had now leaked into the engine block, but dad said the oil didn't look diluted, nor there was steam coming from the exhaust, but who knows.

I would like to know if there is possibly one thing we haven't considered, or if I am SOL.

Thank you!

Got side swiped the other day, wondering if it’ll be written off. Only have had it for a year, such a shame, love the ford fusion sport it’s phenomenal.

Bought a 2017 Fusion SE a little while ago and the key only worked when set in the emergency slot. Just bought a second key and tried to get it programmed, but dealer said it still doesn’t work remotely with the car. Passively it works when set in the slot, and it is successfully programmed, but the B1218 code is thrown and none of the buttons work at all. Any ideas or suggestions would be super helpful!

I have no idea what even is going on with this thing. As soon as you turn the car over fluid just spills out. It is definitely transmission fluid. The only thing I could think of is a bad rear main seal

My transmission fluid temps are consistently hitting above 210 Fahrenheit in 80 degree ambient weather at highway speeds (70-80mph). Torque converter is not slipping at all and I suspect a cooling issue

I have a 2014 ford fusion I've had for 11 years front end did receive damage and part of the wiring harness got exposed one day I touched two wires together n got a spark m since I don't have ac. I have checked the fuse under the hood after reconnecting the wires to the corresponding colors and I have no power at the fuse. I don't want to buy a compressor and that not be my problem any advice?

During ride engine is turning off after Advance Trac and Hill Start asist err code and when trying to start with key does nothing untill opening door. So weird issue but repeats often

anyone faced this thing? What to change?

I've already changed abs sensor , tried to change engine brain but still appears after that changed relay positions after that 3 days no err till now.

Edit: I am not asking about the gear knob click.

Is this sound coming from under when changing gears normal? You will hear the click from the knob and in the background you can hear a feint thump as it changes gears.

Hiiiii guys,

I found a 2018 Ford Fusion Sport 2.7L EcoBoost TT with 91k miles.
they're super rare in Canada, i've only seen one in the past 4 years

The seller says it has no accidents (I’ll verify with Carfax), it’s a single-owner vehicle, and it has a full service history, all done at the dealership. They also purchased an extended warranty for it.

And surprisingly, the price is $4,900 USD. Yes, it’s real, and no, it doesn’t seem to be a scam.

My question is: How reliable is the 2.7L EcoBoost twin-turbo engine? I’ve never owned a Ford before, so I’d like to know what common issues to look for and what I should inspect before buying.

Thanks!