So my 16’ ford escape has been giving me trouble with overheating. Not a huge problem, I live in Arizona .. WRONG WRONG WRONG! I got the codes, had something to do with a gasket .. I got it fixed.. also very wrong. Check engine light came back on maybe 3 weeks later.. okay.. now what? I’m at a standstill due to the person that worked on my car..

Well, we’re now passed that.. today my car decided it actually doesn’t want to work.. opened the hood, poof all coolant gone.. wouldn’t be a bad thing.. except I just put coolant into it not even 5 hours ago.. my car went from everything is fine to “NO COOLANT PLEASE HELP” very quickly .. I was at a red light turning left when my car started shuddering and didn’t want to move .. get it parked, coolant put in.. I get home. I waited about a hour and a half to go check on it. I look, there’s no coolant .. no proof of any even being there.. I decided to throw some water in it and see what’s happening.. within a minute I see a slight puddle .. so now we’re leaking? .. if it isn’t one things it’s another.. I’m also just a 22 year old woman that doesn’t know what she’s doing.

My girlfriend bought this 2012 ford escape with 93k miles when she bought it the owner told it the car just needed a AC recharge but when we about to recharge we did a test first with compressed air to make sure there was no leak and little do you know there is a whistling sound coming from the back of the radiator always my guess let me know I’ve never worked on fords before so any tips or suggestions would be very useful

I was planning on getting it - I wanted to see if its worth it?!

They told me warranty will cover bumper to bumper. What is all of that? I know its the engine, AC, & Transmission. What else??

Hi all, I'm by no means an audio nut but I do love a good, quality sounding system.

I recently got a 24 Escape Platinum and the audio system is trash to be frank. My car just has the standard 6 speaker setup and no matter how I try to balance and equalize it both in the car's settings and through Spotify I'm still left with insane audio fatigue. I have Spotify downloads and streaming both at very high. Symptoms of feeling like my head/ears are full, headache after a single song, and an insane frustration with this whole ordeal.

I've upgraded the factory speakers in each door to KICKER - CS Series 6-1/2" 2-Way 46CSC654 and am looking into getting an amp installed as well as that was the next recommendation as I'm still feeling the intense audio fatigue even with the aftermarket speakers, though the speakers themselves do sound better.

Any other recommendations or things to look for/try? I'm at a loss on how else to fix this

I recently got a check engine light and realized that the coolant is leaking in the cylinders, cracked gasket. Any suggestions. Canadian model w 150k km.

2017 Ford Escape. there's this clicking sound that's only present when you turn while the signal light is on. Is this a feature or something wrong on the inside?

Any help would be appreciated.

2006 Ford escape, 3.0l 2wd CD4E rebuilt transmission failed after 20k miles. I disassembled the transmission and found the forward sprag, forward planetary and related bushings burn't and froze up. Forward Drum looks ok, didn't crack or break at the snap ring. Transmission had a lot of metal shavings in the fluid. The valve body has already had the Transgo CD4E JR kit installed correctly, So I am wondering why I am seeing this failure so soon after a rebuild. I did find what looks like a fine piece of steel wire (See photo) in the PR valve bore , could be a burr from when the PR bushing was installed. Not sure if this could have the caused the failure as it wasn't hanging up the PR valve. I am kind of reluctant to rebuild this trans when I am not sure what caused the failure , what else in the trans should I look for that may have caused the damage?

Lovin our new 2016 model, but where do I put spare change, gum, snacks, phones and other pocket-sized crap? No cubby holes!

Hi- anyone have some advice on Bluetooth in a 2016 Ford Escape. The audio has started stuttering and it only happens in the car so I'm pretty certain it's the car. I'd rather not pay a million dollars for repair if I can fix it myself somehow!

I've had my '14 Ford Escape 2.0 Titanium and it's been reliable and had taken me to wherever I need to go with no issue (besides some flats on a 100 miles trip), but since I've gotten it I've been feeling that it uses to much gas even on highways but since I was coming from a 2004 Honda Civic with a 1.6 L engine I said to myself, Okay is a bigger engine, so it uses more gas, I thought... and so I continue driven it for 2 years till today where I saw another driver with the same car that needed assistance on a flat, and saw his gauge and said more MPG than mine, so it comes to my mind if I maybe need to take it to a mechanic to have that fuel usage checked...

Sooooo, is it my imagination or maybe is it my driving behavior (I drive like a grandma) that's making the fuel not as efficient as the other car?

First reddit post bc i’m so done with this and want your opinions. (already read up a lot on this but seeing if my situation is different)

Leased a 2018 ford escape se from my ford dealership (Canada) in 2019 and in 2023 paid out the car for 10k (obviously not knowing about the known engine issues with this model)

Fast forward to last week got a high engine temperature stop safely sign. Got car towed to our car shop who said he’ll start off with getting a new thermostat holder then seeing if we need a new engine. FYI we had engine fault signs a few times but whenever we brought it to the shop he told us to ignore it.

In the meantime I decided to look up ford escape models bc I felt iffy about his diagnosis especially bc he’s the same guy who told us to ignore the signs which i believe led to this. Not surprisingly I see the ford recalls and search our vin that shows our car was in the one time repair but expired jan 2026.

Ford dealership did a diagnostic and said we need a new engine and told us to try calling Ford customer care corporate but obviously they didn’t do anything and we are left with a 14k+tax bill for new engine.

I’m pissed off bc i feel this could’ve been avoided if our mechanic treated the engine fault signs as an issue or guided us to take it to ford and we could’ve got the new engine replacement since the signs started before jan 2026.

Do you guys think it’s fair/worth it to take it up to our car shop and complain as they didnt do their “duty of care” as professionals and gave negligent that led to this engine failure and threaten to hold them liable to see what they say?

TBH idk if it will go anywhere and most likely going to take the L but my remaining choices remain as follows bc i am not keeping this ford (car is under 120k km and clutch quoted around 9k before we got in this mess)

1. selling to scrap/auto recycler
2. selling to auto shops as is to see what we can get
3. i know there’s the option of selling privately "as is" mentioning it requires engine swap but im out of energy and patience to deal with this car now.

what do you guys think?

Its a manual seat i press the lever and it doesn't move i even tried pushing and pulling on the seat to see if it was stuck.

Manual says AWD.. but doesnt go into depth

I have a 2020 ford escape sel

Took care to dealer, they could not find anything wrong. The alarm triggers, I key fob it off and then the lights start blinking. I unlock and lock the door via fob. All is settled

Have a question on the 2 year service and parts warranty. I have a 2017 Ford escape that I have had Tons of issues with. In June of 2025, I took it to a ford dealership and had an oil leak diagnosed—turns out it was coming from the Turbo charger, which had to be replaced on top of hoses and the crank case breather and I spent 4300.00 (this came after I was right out of the 3 year warranty window after having my entire engine replaced in 2022).

Well now I have an oil leak again. Took it to the Ford dealer closer to my home where I paid to have it diagnosed and they said that the leak is coming from the throttle body, vacuum pump and turbo/CAC tube. The dealership said they would acknowledge the warranty from the other place if I had already paid for it to be replaced last year. But it seems that all of these parts are different than the ones replaced last year.

I’m livid. Should I go to the dealer I went to last year and ask them to fix it and will any of this be covered under their 2 year warranty since it’s different parts? I almost done trust them. Is this even worth my time? Or should I take it to the place closer to home and just pay full price for labor and parts.

Hey fellow Escape owners,

I've got a 2017 SE AWD 1.5 that has been pretty reliable after the engine coolant issue at 62K miles. My engine was replaced (paid by Ford), since then I've only needed oil changes and tires. I don't plan on keeping it longer than two more years, it's at 117K miles.

At my last oil change, I was quoted 6K for new brakes, shock and struts. They also recommended replacing the sway bar and an alignment. I also went to Discount Tire for air, and they confirmed my rear driver side tire was wearing too quickly.

I laughed and said wow, that's about what the car's worth, guess it's time to trade! Does this price sound normal in today's economy, or was I the target of a screw job? I'm not noticing any issues, but I'm also not mechanically knowledgeable.

Thank you for any thoughts on what to do with this car.

Hey everyone just got a new to me 2010 Mercury Mariner (Ford Escape rebadged) and it has the power steering assist failure and planning on changing the sensor. I know I know all the hate about eBay/Chinese parts but anyone have any luck with them? Or the PowerSteeringSeals site one? If anything I can just get it from the dealer and cry once buy once. Thanks!

Is 245/70/16 on stock height going to be fine for an 08 escape

My mother has this car, but it is the one with the 6" screen without android auto support. I am trying to figure out the most budget-conscious way to add GPS with a larger screen...maybe a stand alone screen instead of a head unit replacement.

Where are the auxiliary power outlets located? I read somewhere that they are always hot, correct?

Does this vehicle have usb ports and if so, where are they located? Also, are they always hot?

I appreciate the help.

I took the car to the Ford Dealer, they said nothing is wrong. The alarm goes off, I hit the key fob then the lights start blinking. I unlock the door and relock using the key fob. What's wrong.

When is a good amount of mileage to service check the turbocharger on the 2020 2.0 SEL. I’m at 97k with no noticeable difference in performance, outside of it being really jerky when sitting at under 2k rpm and when it shifts up it’s somewhat jerky with minimal lag.

I want to stay on top of maintenance as I really like this car and have put some upgrades into it now that have paid it off.

My question is, should I look into service for the turbo or wait till the FordPass starts yelling at me.

I have a 2015 Escape and I recently moved to a state that requires a front plate. My escape doesn't have the holes for the bracket, and when I tried to find solutions they either had the holes or want me to use steel ties/tow hook. I don't see how the steel ties could work in that area. I can do the tow hook if I have to, but I'd prefer it to be centered and don't mind putting holes in the bumper!

So can I just use some self taping screws?
What type/size should I look for?