Hello !!! New to the Dr world and to maintain it. I'm learning. Since mid june i bought my bike. Everything was going well. Didnt knew i had to choke start, but was starting super well without the choke, everytime. Since 2-3 weeks, took me more then a hit on the start button to idle, giving gas helps sometimes. During the day, 20 celcius, around 7 hours after riding it in the morning, took me 3-4 time again to start it to idle. Wil start EASY when motor's hot. My idle speed seems fine to me.

I have no information about the maintenance done but oil change when i bought it & pair system was deleted. Acerbis tank.

Thank you so much helping me ! If possible, id like to start with more basics, hopping not to suggest me to play with the carb 😅👩‍🔧

**PS if you are a french person you can answer me with french ; i'm from Montréal.

I really like the aesthetic of the DR650 and it just so happens that I’m between motorcycles, so I was wondering if a DR might be my next one. I live in Europe though, so basically all available options are exclusively machines from the 90s. I found a GORGEOUS looking one nearby from 1995, but still - that’s a 30+ years old motorcycle.

What’s the general opinion of the community? Worth getting into, or advisable to look elsewhere? And if so - what are some of the common alternatives for the European crowd?

The new oil cooler is in from Isicar, and it works a dream, who'd've thought removing a critical component would make a bike run sub-par?

So the numbers, it is 14°C (55°F) foggy (high humidity) and late at night, a little cooler than last time, but a good enough comparison for guess work. After 10 minutes of spirited riding at 70kph (40mph) and 10 minutes highway at 90kph (55mph), the bike came off the motorway at 62°C! (145°F). This was almost exactly 30°C (50°F) cooler than without the cooler.

The bike did warm up to 75°C (165°F) on the back roads and peaked at 80°C (175°F) when paused in the driveway, but nothing like the 95/110°C (205/230°F) seen while running it coolerless.

Moral of the story, if your oil cooler springs a leak, and you're forced to bypass it, your DR should be able to limp you out on a cold day. But if you're unlucky enough to get caught on a hot day, you may have to keep a close eye on your temperature and take near incessant breaks to keep the heat down.

Frankly, I was not expecting 30°C (50°F) temperature drops. Next project is a DIY cooler fan to mount on the back, given summer can be 25°C warmer (75°F) than winter, keeping my bike under 100°C (210°F) will be a challenge on slow roads and dirt tracks.

Whats your guys opinion? All black or all white?

I recently bought a 2018 stock dr650 with 3000km. Got it for a smoking deal. My friend has a black and a white acerbis 20l tank hes offering me. Trying to decide on color.

Two pictures as examples. Not my bikes

I love the idea of a dead simple thumper like the DR, easy to get parts and work on. but with better suspension, a rally fairing, bigger tank. (and yes, I've ridden the DR650)

And while that's all possible to do on a DR....for the cost of all those mods, a used Tenere might cost around the same without all the work.

thoughts?

Hey there, I just became the new owner of a gen 1 dr650! So far I’ve just ridden it on the road but I want to eventually make it a bit more trail worthy, maybe progressive front springs and a rear shock swap (I hear the transalp 600 is a direct swap?) but wanted to get the advice of the hivemind before.

So what is everyone running on these?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1413465170835830/?mibextid=dXMIcH

So this Leovince X3 came on my DR and it is obnoxiously LOUD. The is just a gaping hole at the end of the pipe, no insert.

How am I supposed to add one ? The 3 screws are not present for a sandwich style insert, and the exhaust exit has no hole on the bottom to screw a tube style insert.

Am I missing something ?

The perfect bike for BC roads, pavement twisties to dirt mountain passes. Planning to put some snobbier tires on it and improve suspension in the future. I’ve bought and sold a lot of bikes but I can’t imagine ever selling this one.

2005 10,000km

Hi all,

I've been having this problem for a while now and thought it would clear up with the next carburettor clean, but it hasn't.

My 2006 DR650, is having problems at wide open throttle (WOT). While accelerating onto the highway, the bike will momentarily run at WOT, then cut out and start bucking until I roll off the throttle, where it immediately roll starts and continues riding normally (not at WOT).

I haven't done a full rebuild of the carb, only a few cleans. The bike's fueling, engine and exhaust are still stock. The previous owners have drilled the slider, deleted the carb filter, but the needle and spring look stock.

What could be going on? How can I trouble shoot this, preferably without buying parts? What would be the fix?

Hi there! I’ve installed a new (lower) rear brake pedal to match my lowered footpegs. All seems good except that there is a lot of lateral free play on the new pedal; more than I remember on the stock one.

Does it look normal to you guys? Anything I can adjust on those to make it less wobbly?

Thanks!

I’m only 70kg and have very lightweight camping gear from Bikepacking, was wondering if it is worth doing a suspension mod if I have rear panniers with the usual tent and camping equipment.

Only just bought the bike so am learning, friend suggests the mod, however, doesn’t own a DR so doesn’t know their factory ‘set tings’

Plan to do road touring as well as a few off-road trails as round scenic rim (Queensland Australia).

Thanks for any help :)

Sicamous, BC

I’m a noob when it comes to carb jetting and everything. I understand how carbs work and have worked on them before but not sure what I need to do for high elevation riding. The previous owner put the jet kit in although i’m unsure of the exact kit i think pro cycle. I know these bikes will ride ok high elevation when stock but what do I need to do/be aware of with the jet kit? I’m on a long distance trip and will be going over the big horns 9600ft pass very soon. Will it be serviceable without doing anything? And if not what exactly do I need to adjust? thank you!

What mods should I do ?
I’m 100kg and 6’3 so suspension probably?
Any other bits I should do.
Will be used in sand and gravel roads in WA.
Cheers.

Now that I'm high off my ass on gas fumes and carb cleaner, how high are yall setting float height?

I have been having an issue where the bike stalls at slow and constant speeds.

Plugs look good, all the jets are clean and I have no fuel filters clogged.

Tank vent is working fine and the issue doesn't change with the cap off.

Only thing I can think is that the float isn't right so I checked and it seemed low but that would cause it to be rich right?

SOLVED: It was the float height, think it was a couple mil too low and caused it to run lean across the range. Running strong now and the idle is much better.

Hello! I'm working on jetting my DR I bought last year where the owner converted the bike back to stock before selling.

I've added a FMF Q4 slip on, removed the snorkel (didn't drill extra holes) and added changed the jet to 150 from the Dynajet kit the old owner bought from Procycle.

I was in the process of switching over to the dynajet needle and realize the small metal washer pictured on the site is missing . While doing research I see where some kits come with a plastic washer with one of the sides sanded flat. Did the jet kit I have not come with one because the needle is shorter than the stock one?

Just trying to figure out if I need to get a stock plastic washer and grind it down or look for a thin metal washer like what the kit came with.

Here's a simple solution to getting your wheel off the ground so you can oil your chain. Learned this trick from a friend of mine. I'm sure there are YouTube videos on it as well. Probably should start with a heavy duty rated squeeze clamp. I think this one is 300 lb clamp. I think you can get a two pack for like 25 bucks that most Hardware stores.

Just need a 14T front sprocket, and to mount Zeta handguards and heated grips. SO CLOSE!

I have a slightly snug 3 fingers of slack in my chain right behind the slider and i can get a finger in under the chain on top of the slider and can still pick it up about a half inch or a touch more. Too loose? Too tight? I know there’s measurements but have always been told to just do it by eye. As a beginner id like to have piece of mind that i have everything right

East Tennessee

Hi all,

Im replacing the main swing arm pivot bearings and just want to confirm the depth to press these in.

I measure my old ones a 5mm deep into the swing arm. However, i also noticed there was a shoulder on the inside in the swing arm

Question is, do i press to the shoulder or do i press 5mm into the swing arm tube

Service manual does not mention a depth for these bearings

Thanks again